January
Not_recommendedDeep winter. See the trail's closed season.
0.8 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about -6.3 at 2900 m col height°C high · -7.4 (Zermatt) / about -11.8 at col height, with frost on all 31 nights°C low · 9.1Weather and seasons
Mid-July to mid-September, which is also what the guidebook says: cols clear of snow, every hut and mountain hotel on the route staffed, and 12.6 to 15.4 hours of light. Inside that window the first two weeks of September are the better answer for anyone who would rather have space than certainty, because the ground is as clear as August and the beds are gettable.
The season runs from roughly the third week of June to about the third week of September, set by two things that do not quite coincide: snow on cols of 2850 to 2965 m, and when the huts are staffed. Published Swiss climate figures will mislead you here, because every long-run station is in a valley: Zermatt at 1638 m averages 20.0 C by day in July, while at 2900 m the same month averages about 8.5 C by day and freezes on around ten nights, and September freezes on sixteen. Those col figures are interpolated between the two MeteoSwiss stations that bracket the height, Col du Grand St-Bernard at 2472 m and the Jungfraujoch at 3571 m; rainfall cannot be corrected the same way, because Grand St-Bernard sits on the main divide and records 2285 mm a year against Zermatt's 640, so read the monthly rain figures as valley figures and nothing more. Mid-July to mid-September is when it all works, and the first two weeks of September give the same clear ground with beds you can still book. This is a guidebook route rather than a waymarked one, so there is no single season to look up: every hut, hotel, bus and lift on it runs its own dates and each has to be checked on its own.
Deep winter. See the trail's closed season.
0.8 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about -6.3 at 2900 m col height°C high · -7.4 (Zermatt) / about -11.8 at col height, with frost on all 31 nights°C low · 9.1The coldest month at the altitude the route actually crosses. See the trail's closed season.
1.7 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about -6.8 at 2900 m col height°C high · -7.3 (Zermatt) / about -12.5 at col height°C low · 10.5Daylight is back to nearly 12 hours and it changes nothing, because the average day at col height is still around -5 C. See the trail's closed season.
5.7 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about -5.0 at 2900 m col height°C high · -4.0 (Zermatt) / about -10.4 at col height°C low · 11.9The valleys thaw and the cols do not. Zermatt averages 9.8 C by day; at 2900 m the average day is still below zero and around 20 days never rise above freezing. See the trail's closed season.
9.8 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about -2.6 at 2900 m col height°C high · -0.7 (Zermatt) / about -7.8 at col height, with frost on around 29 nights°C low · 13.6The month that misleads people. The Rhône valley at Sion averages 21.5 C by day and the lower stages are green and pleasant, while at the height of the cols the average day only just clears freezing, it still freezes on more than twenty nights, and nothing at altitude is staffed.
13.9 (Zermatt 1638 m), 21.5 (Sion 482 m, Rhône valley) / about 1.7 at 2900 m col height°C high · 3.2 (Zermatt) / about -3.7 at col height, with frost on around 23 nights and 11 days that never clear freezing°C low · 15.0Watch for: A warm Rhône valley reading tempting people high too early. Sion is 2400 m below the cols this route crosses and tells you nothing about them.A month of two halves, and which half you get is decided by the winter that has just gone rather than by the calendar. Early June the 2850 to 2965 m cols are still under snow and almost nothing high is staffed. From about the third week the huts start opening and the light is at its annual maximum of 15.8 hours.
17.8 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about 6.2 at 2900 m col height°C high · 6.6 (Zermatt) / about 0.2 at col height, with frost on around 15 nights°C low · 15.8, the longest of the yearWatch for: Hard old snow on a steep morning slope, which is the hazard of this month rather than cold. Poles earn their place and on the north side of the highest cols an axe may not be optional. The Col de Riedmatten in particular is steep and exposed on both sides.The month it all works. Snow on the cols is near its yearly minimum from about the second week, every hut, hotel, bus and lift on the route is running, and 15.4 hours of light makes a 1400 m climbing day a choice rather than a race.
20.0 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about 8.5 at 2900 m col height°C high · 8.3 (Zermatt) / about 2.3 at col height, with frost on around 10 nights even now°C low · 15.4Watch for: Afternoon convective storms. The Swiss Alpine Club puts the main thunderstorm build between 1pm and 4pm and the greatest frequency between 4pm and 7pm, and a 2900 m col is the wrong place to be in one, so get the high ground done before mid-afternoon when the forecast is unstable. Livestock guardian dogs work the Valais alpages through the June to September grazing season: stop, stay calm, give the dog time and room, and move away quietly.Underfoot it is the best of the year, the snowline reaching its annual high on north-facing ground late in the month. What separates it from July is the number of people and the wet-day count, which is the highest of the twelve at Zermatt.
19.6 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about 8.6 at 2900 m col height°C high · 8.3 (Zermatt) / about 2.7 at col height, with frost on around 9 nights°C low · 14.2Watch for: The same afternoon storm cycle as July. Heat and water on the long south-facing climbs, Le Châble to Mont Fort and St Niklaus up onto the Europaweg, both of which carry little shade and get done at the hottest part of the day by anyone leaving after breakfast.Two different months in one. The first fortnight is, for a lot of walkers, the best of the year here: cols clear, fewer wet days than July or August, and beds you can actually get. From about the 20th the huts start closing, frost at col height climbs to around sixteen nights, and it turns into a self-sufficient trip on a route that is not built for one.
15.4 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about 4.8 at 2900 m col height°C high · 5.0 (Zermatt) / about -0.5 at col height, with frost on around 16 nights°C low · 12.6Watch for: Daylight is 12.6 hours and the astronomical figure flatters what you get: the Val d'Hérens, the Val d'Anniviers and the Mattertal are deep, steep-walled valleys and the sun leaves the floor well before it sets, so bring the long descents in earlier than in July. The Valais high hunt opens in the second half of the month and runs on into October across exactly this ground.The walking is over before the weather looks it. Zermatt still averages 11.2 C by day, but at the height of the cols the average day is 1.4 C, it freezes on around 23 nights, and the huts that make the route possible have gone.
11.2 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about 1.4 at 2900 m col height°C high · 1.4 (Zermatt) / about -3.6 at col height, with frost on around 23 nights and 12 days that never clear freezing°C low · 11.0Watch for: Having no way out of a bad day. Nothing is staffed at height, the Turtmanntal is closing down, and a col that turns out to be snowed in means walking back down a dead-end valley on 11 hours of light. The Valais hunt is on across this ground.Winter proper at the height that matters: the average day at 2900 m is below freezing and it never clears zero on about 22 days. See the trail's closed season.
5.1 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about -3.3 at 2900 m col height°C high · -3.1 (Zermatt) / about -8.2 at col height°C low · 9.5The shortest days of the year, under nine hours. See the trail's closed season.
1.5 (Zermatt 1638 m) / about -5.5 at 2900 m col height°C high · -6.3 (Zermatt) / about -10.9 at col height°C low · 8.7, the shortest of the year